👉👀Our Journey up the Florida coast
We were
heading due east to Marathon. Yes, I know we could have tacked about a million
times but then it would have taken us double or even three times longer to
travel the 38 N miles to Marathon, so we put the motor on, and motor-sailed to
our next destination. It is not our favourite thing to do as it is far more
peaceful listening to the sound of the swishing of the water than the noise of
the engine. A plus side is we have hot water readily available after motoring,
instead of turning on the water heater which we very seldom needed to do when
we were in the Caribbean as it is far more refreshing having a cold shower.
Our journey
to Marathon was not very comfortable as the swells were much higher than
anticipated and directly head on, but we arrived at Boot Key, Marathon just
after 5.30pm. Unfortunately, despite all the hard work Mel had put into
‘fixing’ the windlass, it was still problematic, so we had to drop and raise
the anchor, manually. Oh no, not another thing for Mel to ponder, problem solve
and fix.
On Tuesday
9 May, we headed off to Key Largo, Rodriguez Key but once again had to motor
sail although this time the seas were flat and calm so travelling the 45N Miles
was a piece of cake and we arrived there just after 3.30pm. Mel enjoyed having
a swim while checking on the anchor, plus checking that everything on the underside
of the boat was looking good.
While
sailing along the Keys, like in the Bahamas, one must get used to the shallow
depths. At times, we could have only 2 metres of water below our keel, and we
knew that in some areas we would have to time our journey just right,
preferably at high tide to ensure we didn’t touch the bottom.
We spent a relaxing night at Rodriguez Key, Key Largo before heading up the inner channel, the Hawk channel (part of the ICW – (Intra-Coastal Waterways) to ‘No Name Harbor’, Miami. It felt like we had
completed a full circle of the Caribbean as way back almost 9 ½ years ago, we had anchored at ‘No Name Harbor’ before setting out on our journey to the Bahamas, which would eventually lead us onto the Caribbean. My goodness has a lot happened and changed since then. When I think back to that time, I remember how nervous and clueless I was about sailing. Although there are times I feel the same way, but know that I have learnt a tremendous amount. I still have a LOT more to learn.
Once again,
we motor-sailed to ‘No Name Harbor’ and enjoyed a lovely evening watching the
skyline of Miami.
By 7.00am
the following morning, we had lifted the anchor and headed to Fort Lauderdale,
where we had arranged to stay at a marina for a few days, while we completed a
few chores on Passages, namely putting the new and additional solar panel on
her and our new navigational instruments.
I know this
is a matter of one’s perspective but since I live on a sail boat, naturally I
feel a bit sad about the whole situation….. let me explain.
There are
some amazing marinas in and around Florida but many now are becoming far too
expensive for the average middle class yachtie. In some cities, like Fort
Lauderdale there are hardly any places for yachts to anchor. When we were last
in Fort Lauderdale in January 2014, we anchored at a place called Lake Sylvia.
It was completely protected from every direction of the wind and there was easy
access to the many facilities, marine shops and groceries stores in and around
downtown Fort Lauderdale.
Apparently,
you can no longer anchor there although we did hear that mooring balls might be
placed there at $35 a day. The locals in
their huge mansions are tired of seeing boats anchored outside their
multimillion-dollar mansions while sipping away at their morning coffee, or
daily martinis. What is happening; and we noticed this in Key West too, where many
of the marinas are now associated with a well-known up-market hotel chain. Yes,
the facilities are great – but they were good anyway before the hotel group
came along and the price of the marinas have skyrocketed. At one time we paid
$1 per foot, now we could pay up to $7.50 per foot.
The marina we had arranged to go into in Fort Lauderdale, Pier 66, is under construction. A huge Hyattor Hilton hotel is being built so we got a slip at a ‘reduced’ rate because there were no facilities like bathrooms, laundry etc. We had access to water and electricity, without any additional charge, although they did charge us $40 for pump out. (A pump out is emptying the holding tank – the toilet deposits).
We arrived at Fort Lauderdale harbour by mid-morning after a lovely beam-reach sail and I found it
quite nerve wracking. The entrance to the Fort Lauderdale port is quite narrow for traffic that goes through there. There were three container ships waiting to come into the harbour plus there were so many local boats screaming past us in all directions. Boaties – power boats often make a huge wake, which means we are rocking and rolling. They go at one almighty speed, while dear Passages, when her engine is on, tends to go at 5N miles at 2100 revs per minute. She can go faster but then the engine is screaming and of course, there are times when we must go as fast as we can.
Mel
notified the harbour master that we would like to enter, who mentioned that we
could enter after one of the container ships had gone through, after which we had 15 minutes before the next container
ship would be entering the harbour.
We made it
through the entrance then had to radio the Bridge operator on 17th
Street that we would like to go through the bridge when it was opened. The 17th
Street bridge is opened on the hour and half hour. We had to wait for about 15
– 20 minutes at the marker, going round in circles and watching as the huge
power boats roared passed us on their way up the river and under 17th
Street bridge.
When it was
time for the bridge to open, the Bridge master informed us to get ready and
this is when Passages goes as fast as she possibly can. See photos from both
perspectives – on the boat and then in a car, waiting for the bridge to close.
As
mentioned, previously, we had arranged a slip for Passages at Pier 66. We had
to meander our way passed huge and extremely expensive boats trying to find our
slip. It was nerve wracking as I have mentioned on several occasions, Passages
has a full keel, no power steering and it is not easy manoeuvring her in tight
spaces. Thankfully we eventually found our slip and were tied up and connected
to shore power within ½ an hour of going through the bridge.
Whenever we
have had the opportunity, we have ordered parts and bits and pieces for the
boat online and have them sent to the next marina we intend visiting. This
time, Mel had arranged for the chart plotter, radar, and new wind instrument to
be sent to Pier 66 marina. Thankfully all those items were waiting for us.
Mel spent
the next few days putting the new chart plotter into our current navigational
pod. We have ordered a new one but that is a whole other frustrating story that
I will not bore you with. (Basically as I am typing this in Fort Pierce, Mel is
trying to contact the company, who sent the wrong navigational pod to us in
Stuart, we sent it back and we have only just received an email to stating that
they had sent the new and correct one to us in Stuart, after we had made it
quite clear to send it to us here in Fort Pierce Grrr…..).
While in
Fort Lauderdale, we organised our new and additional solar panel, which Mel put
up, so now we have 1000 Watts of solar power.
We enjoyed
our time in Fort Lauderdale sorting out several issues, like a new line/rope
for the stay sail and I enjoyed buying a few bits and pieces for the boat, from
Walmart.
Our plan is
to sail up to Stuart via Lake Worth, where the long-awaited whisker pole will be
put on the mast, so after spending 5 days at Pier 66 Marina in amongst the
super wealthy boats and yachts, we set sail for Lake Worth.
FYI: one of
the power boats at the marina was for sale – over $100 million! We walked
alongside one of the boats; the fenders were taller than me!
Once again,
we radioed 17th Street Bridge so we could pass through at the
required time.
We had an
enjoyable sail up to Lake Worth. More later….
Until next
time, enjoy whatever you are doing.
Bye for
now.
Mel and
Caryn
sv Passages
