Saturday, 24 June 2023

No 10: Lake Worth, Stuart and Fort Pierce.

 ðŸ‘‰Lake Worth, Stuart and Fort Pierce








Lake Worth is the first place we anchored at in January 2014 after leaving Fort Pierce. It looked quite different to when we were last there. A lot more mooring balls with semi-permanent live-aboard boats.

Lake Worth is also part of the ICW and is at least 1 km wide. There is a marina for super big and


wealthy yachts and power boats. In fact, there was one boat called Bravo Eugenia that sparkled at night. It was huge and quite beautiful!

FYI:   I, of course, googled to find out some more information about it – here is a link.

BRAVO EUGENIA Yacht • Jerry Jones $225M Superyacht • Oceanco • 2019 (superyachtfan.com)

After we left Lake Worth on Saturday morning, we heard the captain of the Bravo Eugenia say that they were leaving Lake Worth and heading south.

Our time in Lake Worth was lovely and relaxing. There was not much to do as there isn’t a decent dinghy dock although we did tie up at the West Palm Beach yacht club – which was nothing fancy at all. We went exploring but didn’t find much except a corner grocery shop and KFC with some shady characters around. We were still struggling to find decent Wi-Fi so we decided we would buy a burner phone for our time in States, but we didn’t want to be tied down with any mobile phone company. Fast forward…. We found a HUGE Walmart in Stuart which had phones for sale, so at this current moment, we are all sorted... Phew!!!

While at Lake Worth, there was another yacht anchored close by called ‘Tumble Weed’. We later met the owner and explained to him that we almost changed Passages name to ‘Tumble Weed’. This is due to Mel’s connections with Namibia and a very good and special family friend from my days growing up in Zimbabwe, Uncle Trev. When I let Uncle Trev know that I had meet Mel who came from Namibia, he would always refer to Mel as Tumble Weed. We obviously didn’t change her name….. that is largely since there was an Australian boat already called Tumble Weed. In fact, there was a Tumble Weed,2 and 3 registered in Australia too. In Australia, only one boat can be registered under one name whereas in the USA, it is per State hence there being several boats with the same name. It all depends on the State they are registered in.

When we left Lake Worth for Stuart on Saturday morning around 7.00 am, we should have guessed that it would have been busy leaving the entrance, being the start of the weekend. It was like morning rush hour as every size of boat possible was heading out to sea. My goodness, as we were sailing north to Stuart, the amount of fishing boats out and about was incredible. At least 200 boats of different sizes.

We had to time our arrival at Stuart for high tide, as Stuart is known for its shallow depths. At times, we had less than 20cms below our keel. Quite nerve wracking for Mel. I wasn’t looking at the depth instrument just checking the route and the channel markers.

Anyway, the reason for going to Stuart as mentioned previously, was to have the whisker pole installed onto the mast. We had arranged for this to happen while at the Miami Boat show, back in February. The whisker pole keeps the genoa sail in full mode so allowing us to sail more efficiently. Before the whisker pole, as the wind changed, either direction or intensity, the genoa sail would ‘luff’ – flap, spilling lots of wind.

By lunch time, we had anchored in Manatee Pocket in amongst a few rust buckets, permanent live aboards and Island Packet yachts. My goodness, we had never seen so many Island Packets in such a small anchoring area before. We later learned that Mack Sails, the company we were dealing with for the Whisker pole, was affiliated to another business, Mack Yacht Services, which is run by one of the ‘Mack’ brothers, Colin. He has become extremely well known in the States and further afield for working on Island Packets. It is quite a long and involved story with a bit of social media ‘politics‘ involved, but basically now Colin only works on Island Packets.

No sooner had we dropped anchor and were preparing to have lunch and relax for the afternoon, when the crew from one of the Island Packets anchored in Manatee Pocket, Petrel - Mark and Valeri from Connecticut came to introduce themselves. They were on an IP420 and were planning on leaving Manatee Pocket the following morning after having quite a bit of work done on their boat. They filled us in on the ins and outs of Manatee Pocket – for example, the Poop boat, that comes round to the boats that have requested a pump-out, every Tuesday. It is a free service.


We were still experiencing a few issues with our outboard motor for the dinghy. It was quite frustrating as the dinghy is our lifeline to land. After spending another couple hundred dollars to have the fuel pump’s diaphragms replace, the engine stopped in the middle of the channel when we were going to meet up with some friends and we had to row the rest of the way. Mel ended up spending several hours trying to get to the bottom of why the engine was still not working after it was supposedly repaired. It turned out that the ‘technician’ hadn’t fitted the choke correctly and it was left in the ‘on’ position, flooding the engine. The engine is now working well. Hoorah!!!!

The whisker pole.
Being at anchor in Manatee Pocket was quite stressful as we could not make any water while there; the water was brackish so we would fill up our 5-gallon water container, almost every time we went on shore at the local marina.

Early Monday morning, 22 May, Mel and I went to Mack Yacht Services – Colin’s Office/workshop/boatyard. It was down one of the river outlets of Manatee Pocket. There were at least 10 Island Packets along the riverbanks or on the hard at Colin’s boatyard – more information later about what transpired after visiting the boatyard and how it is impacting our plans.

This wasn’t where the whisker pole was being attached – we had to go to the Mack Sails workshop and office which was about a 2 -3 km walk. When we arrived at Mack Sails to find out when the whisker pole was going to be attached, we were a little disappointed as we were pushed back by another week. Anyway, the whisker pole was put onto Passages, a week later, on Tuesday 30 May 2023. In the meantime, we were able to fix a few other bits and pieces on the boat, like the small fans we have in the main living area, kitchen, and bedroom.

We also took the opportunity to have Mack Sails look at the stay sail which had ripped when we were sailing up the Florida Keys, to Boot Key. Unfortunately, it is not repairable as the material has deteriorated, so Mel is busy getting quotes for a new stay sail and genoa.

While in Manatee Pocket, we met a wonderful couple who were also anchored close by and are on an IP38, Johanna and Ronald and their little dog, Henry, on the boat ‘London Calling’. They have stayed in Stuart and anchored in Manatee Pocket on a few occasions having work down on their IP by Colin.

Every day for the next week, until we left Stuart on Thursday 1 June, we would meet up with Johanna and Ronald either on our boat or theirs for drinks, or we would go to the Twisted Tuna or Fish House for a drink. (This is where we would fill up our 5-gallon water container).

One morning, Johanna decided to be independent, and take their dinghy to the local park so Henry, the dog could go for a quick run around. A big part of moving onto a boat is losing one’s independence. In the past, I have tried to drive the dinghy so if I feel like going ashore on my own, I can. Well, this time round the dinghy hasn’t been reliable so I have been reluctant to have a go by myself.

Anyway…. London Calling’s motor is electric and reliant on a small foldable solar panel. Johanna asked if I wanted to join her, which I did and off we went to the park. It was lovely to be walking around in amongst the trees and the squirrels. The squirrels were cheeky little things, coming up really close to Henry the dog, teasing him to have a go at chasing them.

When it came time to head back to the boats and our husbands/partners, the engine wouldn’t start. We tried several things as we were both determined to be independent and to solve the problem of the engine not starting. Well after about 20 -25 minutes, we reluctantly phoned Mel to ask him to collect Ronald on his boat and to come and rescue us. Both Johanna and I were quite deflated as whenever one tries to be independent, like we are on land, something seems to go wrong. Oh well such is life on a boat!

While in Stuart, we visited a huge Walmart, bought our mobile phone for the USA, and stocked up on a few groceries for the rest of our stay and journey onwards to Fort Pierce.

During our stay in Manatee Pocket, we saw and heard of some sad stories:  I know I have mentioned in a previous post about how anchoring spaces are reducing and more and more of these areas are either becoming mooring fields, attached to a marina or a city council. It usually costs between $25 – $35 a day for a mooring ball. In many cases, included in the price is access to a dinghy dock, showers, laundry and a few other facilities that yachties require, like a bus into town, etc. All well and good, however what is happening in the USA is many people can no longer afford to rent a house, so it is cheaper for them to live on a boat. As we have found in a few anchorages, there are live-aboards and their boats in many cases, are rust buckets. While in Manatee Pocket, there was a rust bucket, that didn’t swing on it’s anchor like other boats, so when there was a huge thunderstorm (and we had a few while we were anchored), we became quite close to it. In fact, one night, we hardly slept as we were watching how close we were to it. Our anchor held well, but we had to keep a watch, as if the anchor dragged, which we were sure it wouldn’t as it was deep down in thick, gooey mud, we would need to react very quickly, to prevent ourselves from colliding into it. We re-anchored at least three times and the third time we were just sticking into the channel when the wind was blowing in a SE.

On one of the boats close-by, lived an elder couple who were forced to put on a generator several times during the day and night. The wife is sick with cancer and asthma, and they are hoping to get to the Bahamas, soon. Their boat doesn’t look as if it will be able to survive the up-and-coming hurricane season. It is so sad! In fact, while we have been in the USA, we have noticed how many places have been adversely affected by Covid. Even lovely Fort Pierce looks run down in many sections and the people who are homeless – there are many more than when we were last in this part of the world. Yet the wealth of some people…..enough said.

We headed for Fort Pierce up the ICW – the Intra-Coastal Water way. I wanted to see what the ICW was


all about although Mel doesn’t enjoy travelling along the ICW as you are motoring and it is like connecting the dots, from one green and red channel marker to the next. I did enjoy seeing the ‘countryside’ along the banks of the ICW.

The history of the ICW is quite fascinating as it is a water way that runs from Massachusetts in the north, right down the east coast of the USA to the Gulf of Mexico. It is 4.800km long and basically one does not need to go out into the open sea/Atlantic Ocean to travel down the east coast of the USA.

Here is some information about the ICW: Thanks to Wikipedia: Intracoastal Waterway - Wikipedia

It took us about 4 hours to travel up to Fort Pierce, where we had arranged for a slip in the Fort Pierce City Marina. This is quite a significant place for me and Passages, as this was the place where I was first introduced to her in December 2013. We were keen to see if any of the lovely people we had met 10 years previously were still around, but sadly no. One such character – Frank, who was a retired New York City police Officer and was serving when 9/11 happened, and his wife Annie, were living aboard their motor boat, passed away a few years back and nobody is sure what/where Annie is. Their boat is still around, in fact diagonally opposite us, as when Frank passed away, Annie sold it to the couple who are currently living on it at present.


While we were in Fort Pierce, we enjoyed the Saturday Farmers Market, went for a bike ride to Aldi and around and down some of the side streets of Fort Pierce. On one such occasion, we saw a sign that said, ‘Peacock Crossing’. Upon investigating a little further, we came across a whole field of Peacocks of all different ages. It was quite fascinating to see the males, strutting their stuff.

Well, our plans for this year have had to change and quite drastically. Our plan was to complete all the upgrades on Passages and then sail south down to Curacao. However, we have realised that she needs a lot more work than what we originally thought, so we have decided to find a boatyard out of the main hurricane belt and continue having all the necessary work done on Passages. We will be sailing up north to the Florida/Georgia border to St Marys Boatyard, where Passages will be for a while, while we travel to Cape Town and spend some time back on our land base home – Perth.

Here is what still needs to be done on Passages:

The windvane: Mel is not totally happy with the positioning of the windvane and would like to make an adjustment. This adjustment requires some fibreglass work, so we are waiting until Passages is back in the boatyard. The lovely washing machine we bought for Passages, requires some fibreglass work as well, to make it stable on the boat.

The HUGE issue we have are the chain plates: While in Stuart and at Colin’s place with all the Island Packets, it became apparent that we need to have the chain plates replaced. This is MAJOR work – 6 weeks of work and I will not mention the amount of money. HOWEVER, they are an essential part of the boat as without secure and stable chain plates which hold up the mast, we would not be able to sail Passages.

SO, while the chain plates are being done in December 2023, later this year, the mast will have to come down, so the wiring for the new radar and wind instruments, will be added. At the same time, we will have the new stay sail and genoa made.

At Colin’s boatyard, there are storage containers where we can place everything that is on Passages, in a safe environment. Mel and I are busy working out different scenarios where we can go. We could organise an Airbnb as Johanna and Ronald did when they were in a similar situation to us, having to live off and away from the boat for over 6 weeks. I will have plenty of time to make the new hatch covers and some rope bags while Passages is having the work done on her.

I will not write any more long detailed posts of our journey up to St Marys, but I will make a short video to share with you once we are about to leave Passages.

So, until next time – enjoy whatever you are doing. Keep safe, Be Kind and Be Happy.

Bye for now.

Mel and Caryn