Tuesday 28 March 2023

No 3: Guatemala - Tikal and Flores

 


Tikal is the largest ancient Mayan city found in the north of Guatemala. If you are in Guatemala, it is one of the must-see places to visit.

We decided to spend two days in Tikal and two days in Flores which is a pretty town situated about 70kms southwest of Tikal. Many people fly or bus into Flores, then take a day trip to Tikal. We wanted to be in Tikal for the sunrise and to experience staying in part of the jungle, where you can hear all the animals sounds early in the morning and sometimes even late at night.

We left the Rio for Flores on Monday morning (13 March) by bus – or a minivan. It was hot! We left at 11.00am only arriving in Flores after 4.00pm. There are major road works taking place along the way. We knew once we arrived in Flores, we would have to find our way to Tikal, as the hotel we had booked to stay in, was in the actual National Park, about 100 metres from the entrance to the Mayan

temples. We found a taxi who would take us to Tikal. The drive was slow and tiring as the driver insisted on driving according to the minimum speed limit, but I suppose that is better than not arriving at all. We eventually arrived at our hotel – Hotel Jaguar.

The hotel was comfortable but a bit behind the times with regards to technology and electricity. They used generators and batteries, so the electricity was only available at certain times of the day. From 9.00pm to 6.00am, there was no power, so even the ceiling fans couldn’t be switched on and it was hot and humid, even in the middle of the night. All part of the experience!

Mel standing outside
 our room at Hotel Jaguar.

We were glad we had chosen the hotel because we had arranged to go on a sunrise tour of the Mayan ruins which started at 4.00am on Tuesday 14 March.

We met up with our tour guide, Caesar who was originally from Guatemala but had spent many years in New York City, so he was fluent in English. He was quite entertaining too.

It was wonderful and quite spooky walking along the pathway in the jungle, in total darkness with the odd glint of moonlight when there was a break in the canopy of trees.

Tikal was discovered in 1848 by Coronel Modesto Mendez and Ambrosio Tut. There is also the story that it was first founded by Mr Wrigley of chewing gum fame. He had sent out workers to find and gather the resin from some trees found in the area, as part of the ingredients to make chewing gum. – chicle. A few of the workers saw some scary and exotic faces and stone carvings. These were

At the Grand Plaza with Templo 1/Grand Jaguar
in the background.

investigated which led to the finding of the Mayan temples in Tikal. 

The National Park was open to the public in 1955 and it was recognised as a site of ‘Humanity Heritage’ by UNESCO in 1979.

Tikal in Mayan means ‘in the lagoon’ but many still refer to it and know it as ‘the places of the spirit voices’ or the ‘place that whispers’. The Mayan civilisation dates from the year 800BC until 900AD.

Only 20% of the 65 km2 has been excavated due to finances and the complexity of the whole structures as Mother Nature has taken over and the roots of the trees have embedded themselves into the structures.

Here are two links explaining a bit about the Mayan civilisation:

Mayan Civilization: Calendar, Pyramids & Ruins- HISTORY - HISTORY

Tikal - Wikipedia

A view from the top of Temple 4.
During our sunrise tour, we climbed Temple 4 which is also known as the Two-headed Snake Temple. It is the tallest temple in Tikal and in all Mesoamerica. (A Land of Ancient Cultures

Mesoamerica is a region that spans from central Mexico to northern Costa Rica, where diverse cultures flourished for thousands of years.). It was built in 740AD and is 70 metres tall. It was the last temple to be built and stands majestically above and overlooking many of the other temples, that is why it was perfect to climb up and watch the sun rise in the east.

 

Sitting at the top of Temple 4
, - the very top is in the background.
The bird life in the area/jungle is prolific! Therefore, the sounds of the birds early in the morning is loud and raucous competing with the growl of the Howler monkeys. While on our tour with Caesar, we saw the beautiful and colourful toucan – the Keel billed toucan to be precise, lots of Black Vultures, Golden Oriole, Great Curassow, Oscillated Turkey, lots of green parrots, and the North Jacana which is like a Lilly trotter. We heard the Lineated woodpecker but couldn’t see him amongst the branches and leaves.

 

The howler monkeys are quite prolific in the area, and you would be alerted that they were close by, by the rustling and the falling of the leaves. We would look above us and sure enough, there they were eating, lounging or playing around, swinging between the branches using their tails or their long arms and legs.

 

Coatimundi feeding.
We came across a group of Coatimundi, on two separate occasions, feeding, oblivious to us as we walked past them. They have long tails which stand erect and a snout mouth/nose to smell the bugs
lurking in the ground (similar to meerkats).

Jaguar do lurk in the area along with wild pig but thankfully we didn’t encounter any while walking around the park, although Mel would have loved to have seen one. Not sure what he would have done if he had of seen one. We did eventually see one but sadly in a zoo – more later.

 

After our tour with Caesar which lasted until about 9.00am, we went back to our hotel for a bit of breakfast, then went out again to explore the park and temples on our own. We walked down every road possible and saw all of the temples, climbed up everyone we were allowed to climb. In total, we walked

over 21kms that day according to our watches.

We were able to go up Temple 2 in the Grand Plaza, Acropolis Central, Temple 6 and the Palace de las Acanaladuras.

 

All the temples were built in different time periods and by different rulers. The whole Mayan dynasty was based on a feudal system and the life expectancy was maximum of 30 years.  There is some speculation that the whole dynasty collapsed due to lack of water and when the people left, mother nature took over and covered the temples until they were discovered in 1848.

 

We left Tikal on Wednesday, 15 March and headed for the town of Flores. Flores is where most people stay when they want to see Tikal and the Mayan temples, or the ruins further north of Tikal, Uaxactun. It is a touristy town surrounded by the cool refreshing waters of Lake Peten Itza, which is where you will find many people enjoying a dip in the waters after a tiring day in Tikal.

 


Mel and I felt quite old as many of the people were actually backpackers. Anyway, we managed to see what we wanted to see and that was a jaguar. We don’t usually like going to zoos, only if we know that they are of an extremely high standard and the animals are looked after appropriately.


We had read about the Zoological Education Centre of San Miguel, so on Thursday morning, we took a water taxi across the lake to San Miguel. We then took a tuk tuk to the zoo.

 

It was quite distressing to see the animals in such small cages. The animals looked healthy and the cages were of a reasonable size (except the vultures cage) but the cages were not well maintained and everything looked tired and badly in need of a revamp.

 


We saw a jaguar – yes it was sleeping and had a very full tummy but it was sad to see that he wasn’t active and hardly had enough space to run, jump and play.

 

We walked around the zoo, across to the little island where there were wild pigs roaming and scavenging about.  When it was time to go back to the main island of Flores, we arranged for a water taxi to take us back. That was a lovely ride as we had a wonderful view of the island. Riding with us were two small swallow type birds. They looked grey but with the glint of the sun on them, their colour was a beautiful darkish blue. They would sit on the bow of the boat then fly out, along side the boat, whirling and twirling.  It was magical to watch and experience after seeing some of the wild birds in the zoo, looking frustrated as they couldn’t fly free.

 


Flores had plenty of restaurants to choose from and in fact we were spoilt for choice.

 

We left Flores on Friday 17 March. The bus left for the Rio Dulce at 6.00am and we were back at the boat by 12.00pm.

 

Our next adventure will be starting on Sunday 19 March when we travel to Antigua and Lake Atitlan in the south west of Guatemala.

 

Until next time, take care and enjoy whatever you are doing.

Bye for now.

Mel and Caryn

sv Passages

 

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 Additional photos of Tikal.

 





 










 












 Additional photos of Flores.

The view from our hotel window.

Mel enjoying the hotel pool.


Some of the colourful houses/buildings on Flores.



The Cathedral right at the top of the hill on the island of Flores.





Mel enjoying the boat ride back to the main island of Flores after our visit to the Zoo.



A spider monkey


The view from the zoo of Flores, with the Cathedral in the centre.



When we arrived back at the hotel, this is how our towels were folded. 😊