Saturday, 18 March 2023

No 1 – Passages 2023 Here we go again…..

 “On the water, life is different. Time doesn’t move hour to hour, but moment to moment. We live by the currents, plan by the tides, and follow the sun”.

‘I can’t change the direction of the wind, but I can adjust the sails to always reach our destination’.

(A few quotes from I don’t know where, but I thought they were apt)

It has been a long time since I have posted anything on our blog …… much has happened, and we are all very aware of the affects that Covid had on millions of people’s lives and the impact it had on many people around the world.

However, looking back, Mel and I were extremely lucky especially living in fortress W.A. We took the opportunity to enjoy what we have and saved hard so we could live ‘our’ dream.

Leaving off from our last blogpost we have a confession to make…. We lost quite a bit of information and photos. We’re not sure exactly what happened. It is a pity as we had an amazing time in Cuba, spent about a week in Havana. After Cuba, we sailed to the beautiful Cayman Islands, where the water is so crystal clear, we were swimming and snorkelling around our boat. It was stunning. Unfortunately, we were on a tight time frame, so needed to sail onto the destination of the Rio Dulce, in Guatemala.

This was to be the longest sail we, Mel included, had ever done across the wide-open sea. It was quite magical, as we set the sails and I think we hardly adjusted them the whole time we were sailing until we came nearer to land and Livingston, our point of entry. We got into a rhythm of who was on watch and what needed to be done, etc.

I remember leaving the Cayman Islands after lunch on Wednesday and arriving at the entry point of Livingston, early Sunday morning.

Livingston is an interesting place and is well known in the sailing fraternity for its sand bar across the entrance to the Rio Dulce. Many conversations have been had about where, when, and how to cross the sand bar as you don’t want to become stuck on it. There are many people in Livingston who would love you to get stuck as it means business for them, towing you off the bar.

We arrived just outside Livingston at about 4.30am and waited for high tide which, if I recall correctly, was just after 6.00am. We crossed the bar without any issues although it is an automatic reaction to pull in your stomach and lift yourself out of your seat as you cross over. I think we had about 5 – 10 cms to spare. Phew!

Once we put down anchor, we were immediately inundated with ‘taxi’s wanting to take us ashore and onto Customs and Immigration. I just remember it was a long and tedious process – small person syndrome mentality. After checking in, we took the opportunity to walk around Livingston, taking in the atmosphere of the Mayan culture.

After lunch, we started our journey up the amazing and beautiful Rio Dulce with it’s lush surroundings and interesting sounds from the many birds and animals along it’s river bank. I will be taking lots of photos when we eventually leave the Rio Dulce, Guatemala to show them in a future blog.

We arrived outside the entrance to RAM Marina about 4.30pm and put down anchor. We were exhausted!

RAM Marina is the boatyard Passages would stay in for the next 4 ½ years and where our 2023 journey will begin. BUT before I continue with what has happened since we arrived back at RAM marina, I need to go back a bit.

We left Perth on Tuesday 14 February. As always, I had mixed feelings – excited about the new adventures waiting for us, but also apprehensive and sad about leaving our beautiful and comfortable home. In the time since leaving Passages in July 2018, we have done some major renovations to our home, like a whole new back yard with a wonderful swimming pool, renovated our bathrooms, re- painted the whole inside of the house, new fans, light fittings, cupboards in the spare bedrooms – lots of upgrades.

This time round, we didn’t have a set date to return to our home-base in Perth, as both Mel and I have retired. To quote our financial advisor: “Why leave your hard-earned cash to the cat haven, enjoy the fruits of your labour and have fun!”.


Our goal was to fly back to Guatemala via Miami as the Miami boat show, the biggest in the world, was taking place from Wednesday 15 February to Sunday 19 February. We have always known we needed to do some upgrades on Passages like the electronics and a new life raft, plus Mel was keen to get a whisker pole, a feathering prop, and a wind vane. I will explain each, at the end of the post.

A panoramic view of some of the exhibitions at the boat show.

We went to the boat show on Friday 17 and Saturday 18 February. The show was in 6 different locations around Miami depending on what type of boat you were interested in. The Power boats were in one place, while the yachts were in another. The Miami Convention centre was where many of the accessories for the various boats were situated and where we spent most of our time. Our first day, Friday, was finding out and gathering information. Friday evening, Mel spent most of his time updating his spreadsheet, totalling the cost of everything. I had to reassure him that everything would be fine. Like when planning for a wedding, as soon as you mention the word ‘boat/yacht’, the price is doubled sometimes trebled.

So on Saturday morning we were back at the Boat show, spending our well-earned money.

Mel checking the facts and amounts.
at the boat show
.
We left Miami for Guatemala City on Sunday morning. It was a 2 ½ hour flight compared to our flights to get to Miami (Perth to Doha – 11 ½ hours, a 3 hour stop over, then Doha to Miami – 16 hours!) Jet lag was playing havoc with our sleep, as Perth is 14 hours ahead of Guatemala.

Our journey to the boat yard – RAM Marina was still another arduous car drive from Guatemala City airport.

We had specifically chosen to fly on a Sunday into Guatemala City and have a designated driver to drive us down to the Rio Dulce, as the traffic is usually a lot less than any other day.  Sundays it is meant to take approximately 4 and a bit hours, whereas other days anything from 6 hours upwards.

Guatemala is mountainous. The road system is quite primitive to say the least – it has not kept with the times due to a variety of reasons, of which one is apparently corruption. The road down to the Rio Dulce for a large section of the way is single lane with hardly any space on the verge. In fact, houses and the towns are built literally right on the edge of the road. To add to the excitement, stress or intrigue, the very same road is the main road between Guatemala City and the main port of Porte Barrios on the Caribbean/Atlantic side of the country. I have never seen so many ship containers being trucked on one road, along with civilian cars, company tourist buses, motor bikes AND even bicycles!

Well, our journey down to RAM took over 6 hours! Otto, our driver picked us up from the airport at 2.15pm, we eventually arrived at the Marine at 8.45pm! There had been a major car accident on the road the night before which caused so much congestion, the traffic was still backed up on Sunday afternoon. Apparently, many people slept in their cars that night. It was horrendous but also interesting as it gave us time to see the surroundings and how some people live in Guatemala.

It was good to be at our destination and of course before we even had a cuppa tea, we were off to see
Mel’s mistress, Passages. I also felt quite excited to see her. She was looking good with her new paint job!

Early Monday morning, we were back inspecting Passages, in the light of the day. She still looked good despite the mould on all the covers covering her. We organised the surveyor to come around as our insurance was due on Passages. The copper coat on the hull had to be re-activated – slightly sand papered, which was done later that afternoon. The new signage was put onto her so she was ready to be launched into the water. Then the work began as there was lots of cleaning to be done, all the equipment and fittings inspected and stocking up of groceries and provisions before we head off on our adventures.

So, as you can see since leaving Perth, we’ve been rather busy, ticking things off our list.

Until next time.

 

 

 

Bye for now.

Mel and Caryn

sv Passages

 

If you want to see where we currently are – press on the "Latest Location" link at the bottom left of the page. This may not be accurate and is dependent on sites with access to AIS (automatic identification system).

 

 

Electronics – plot charter, deep sounder – navigational instruments,

Whisker pole – for downwind sailing.

Feathering prop – reduction in drag (improves speed).

Wind vane - mechanical steering system for long distances.

Having the hull and copper coating sanded down.

At Doha, Qatar International airport before our 16-hour flight to Miami, USA.