Wednesday, 3 December 2014

Week 49 November 17 to 23 2014


Trinidad and Tobago like most other Caribbean islands, were settled by the Amerindians as they made their way up the Caribbean chain. The islands have changed hands between the British, French and Spanish a few times during the course of their history.

At Pitch Lake
On July 31 1498, Christopher Columbus landed in Trinidad and claimed the island for Spain. He named it after the Holy Trinity. The Capital of Trinidad is Port of Spain and it has been the islands capital since 1757. The Spanish however had neglected the island for almost 300 years and the Amerindians had all but been decimated when French Catholics started to arrive and African slaves were imported.

In 1797, the British captured Trinidad and in 1838 when slavery ended in the British Empire, recruitment of labour from other countries took place, namely from China, Portugal, Lebanon and Syria. It wasn’t until 1845 that Britain started importing labourers from India and by 1917 over 144 000 had arrived.

 The first oil well was drilled near Pitch Lake in 1857 – we visited Pitch Lake – more information later.

Tobago was named Magdalena by Christopher Columbus as he was leaving the Gulf of Paria in 1498 – the Gulf of Paria is the stretch of water on Trinidad’s west coast and the mainland of South America.

Pitch Lake
From 1627 to the late 18th century, Tobago changed hands many times (between 24 – 31 times but who is counting) This was between European powers – British, Dutch, French and Courlanders (now part of Latvia). In 1768, Scarborough became the capital of Tobago. In 1776 the first forest reserve in the western hemisphere was designated in Tobago and in 1781, the French seize the island and made it into a sugar colony. The French ceased the island to the British under the Treaty of Paris in 1814 and it wasn’t until after slavery was abolished and the sugar industry collapsed that Tobago came under Trinidad’s control. This was in 1889.
 

 In 1908, the first commercial oil production took place in Trinidad and in 1962 Trinidad gained independence from Britain. In 1976, Trinidad and Tobago became a republic within the British Commonwealth. In 1990 there was an unsuccessful coup attempt made by an Afro – Islamist group called Jammat al Muslimeen. In 2010 a new coalition government was formed under T & T’s first female Prime Minister.

Back to the present….. Monday was spent on the boat as we had organised to hire a car for Tuesday and Wednesday. Monday evening though we had a BBQ on shore – it was a potluck – and was attended by most of the yachties anchored off in the Carenage where we are at present.

Tuesday we were at the car hire company as soon as they were open and off we went to see what we could see…despite the awful weather we were experiencing.  We drove to Port of Spain and were planning on heading further south to Pitch Lake and the Sea Temple, but the weather was too awful and so was the traffic.  We drove to Bamboo Cathedral but it was bucketing down with rain so couldn’t get out to enjoy the area. We decided to head for a HUGE shopping mall that we had passed to wait out the weather.

It is hard to believe that Christmas is around the corner, as the shops where full with Christmas decorations, adverts, specials, etc.

The weather started clearing but it was now far too late for us to travel further south to Pitch Lake and the Sea Temple, so we decided to head east and see some sites along the way like Mount St Benedict Church and Monastery.

We thought we were on the correct road for Mount St Benedict Church and Monastery but ended up in Caura which was the first Arawak settlement in Trinidad.  We stopped next to the river where there were quite a few people enjoying the many picnic spots along the river bank. (Enlarge the photo to read the story about Caura)

After spending some time in Caura, we eventually found the correct road to Mount St Benedict Church and Monastery and made our way up there.

We were reluctant to go back to the boat as we had the car for two days and wanted to make the most of it, so we ended up at Movie World and saw a movie – Interstella….. I will not pass judgement. It felt good to do something quite normal or what we used to do in our “other” life.

Wednesday we were in the car and heading towards Pitch Lake by 8.00am along with everybody else going off to work. The weather was a little better than yesterday or so we thought but on our way to Pitch Lake there was an accident on the main road so Ivo who had his GPS with him, decided to show us a short cut. Well… it was certainly interesting as we ended up in the middle of one of the main oil fields; saw a fuel truck empty its contents into a ditch in the middle of nowhere and we went  on “roads” that would have been better suited  for a 4x4 than a Nissan family 4x2 car. Thank goodness Mel is a pretty good driver – well I think so. I got
the giggles which I usually get when I am nervous but also enjoying the experience. We even passed what should have been the Oropouche Lagoon which is meant to be the oldest pre- Columbian site in the West Indies dating back to 5,000BC and where excavations of stone tools and the earliest skeleton anywhere in the Caribbean have been unearthed. This is referred to as the Banwari Trace. Well, all we saw was a dump site and a whole lot of vultures which are common in Trinidad. They are everywhere!!! (The vultures)

Pitch Lake
We EVENTUALLY found Pitch Lake… but it was pouring with rain.

Information taken from the Cruising Guide to Trinidad and Tobago by Chris Doyle 4th edition 2012 - Pitch Lake – is described by Noel Coward as “Twenty two tennis courts badly in need of repair”. It is not a beautiful or scenic sight as, apparently in the tropical heat, the huge black lake can become scalding hot and is known to catch fire. We would have no such problems as it was pouring with rain the whole time we were there. Sir Walter Raleigh “discovered” it in 1595 and used the “tar” to caulk his fleet of wooden ships. It is only one of three natural asphalt lakes in the world and it is the biggest. (The other two – one in Norway and the other in the USA)

“The million- year old pit covers 89 acres and approximately 300 tons of high quality asphalt is removed daily”.

Mel and I decided to take a tour guide as there are areas on the Pitch Lake that are not solid and people and “things” have been known to fall in and do extensive harm to themselves.

There were some wonderful fauna and flora around and on the Pitch Lake. Mel even went for a dip in the middle of the Lake – not many people can say they have swam in the middle of a lake of tar!

After Pitch Lake, we drove to the Sea Temple in Waterloo. This is a Hindu temple which was literally built in the sea by an Indian indentured labourer Siewdass Sadhu who toiled for decades to build the temple in the sea after being forbidden to build it on colonial land.

It was very interesting to see as there was even the cremation sight for the dead bodies…… on our way there, we actually passed a cremation ceremony taking place. Unfortunately we couldn’t stop as the traffic was horrendous and with all the road works taking place and the rain, it was near impossible to turn around to have a “closer” look.

After spending some time at the Sea Temple, we drove to see the Hanuman Temple and Darratreya Yoga centre. The statue of the Hindu god, Hanuman is the tallest of its kind outside of India (26m/85ft) and it towers over the Yoga centre and mandir/temple. http://www.sanatansociety.org/indian_epics_and_stories/the_life_of_hanuman.htm#.VHvKFY0tD4g

A special event was taking place at the Hanuman Temple and Darratreya Yoga centre as the main

 
The statue of the Hindu god,Hanuman
spiritual leader from India was visiting for the next 5 days. We were told that if you walk around the
statue of the Hindu god Hanuman and asked for a wish, your wish would be granted.

After spending about an hour at the temple, we made our way home but not before stopping at another HUGE shopping mall, where we had dinner.

Thursday morning, we returned the car and enjoyed the rest of the day on the boat catching up with chores, etc.

Friday – the weather was awful so we were boat bound for most of the day although the weather did clear up in the evening so we walked to the other anchorage - to Chaguaramas where there was another pot luck BBQ for the yachties.

Saturday, once again the weather wasn’t great in the morning but it cleared up enough for us to head into Port of Spain where we had been told about a Christmas event at the Queens Park Oval. When we arrived we realised that it was mainly for very young children although apparently, much later on the party turned into one more for adults.  We walked around the cricket oval – they never look quite the same in real life as they do on T.V. We couldn’t stay too long as we knew we would have to walk to the main bus terminus and the last buses were at 7.00pm. On our way to the bus terminal, we had to stop at the start of the Brain Lara Boulevard to take a photo of his statue.

Sunday – the weather was awful so it was a boat bound day.

Our plans are as follows….. it looks as if we MAY have a weather window on Thursday/Friday which may give us the opportunity to head to Tobago although there is so much more to see in Trinidad! Decisions!!!

Until next time, take care.

Love
 
Captain Mel and Admiral Caryn/xx


Caura - along the river bank
At the shopping mall.

Mount St Benedict Church

 
Pitch Lake
The Sea Temple




The Sea Temple



At the yoga centre