Sunday, 14 December 2025

No 4 : Passages 2025/2026 - Colombia – Cartagena

 

The flag of Cartagena.

Cartagena is located on the northern coast of Colombia, approximately 230km along the coast from Santa Marta. Both cities are historic port cities. Santa Marta is closer to the Sierra Nevada mountains where the katabatic winds race down their slopes. Cartagena is well known for its colonial walled city

Clock Tower at the entrance
to the Walled City.

which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since we were not going to sail to Cartagena as mentioned in our previous blog, we decided to travel by bus to Cartagena. I enjoy bus and train travel as I love seeing the countryside and the small towns and places along the way.

We decided we would spend from Monday 23 – Saturday 29 November in Cartagena exploring the famous walled city, the area of Getsemani known for its street art, and the imposing Castillo San Felipe de Barajas.

Travel in Colombia is much cheaper than in Australia. We have used Uber and taxi’s several times and the cost for the distance travelled is in no way comparable to what we would pay in Perth. We caught an Uber to the main bus terminus here in Santa Marta to catch our bus to Cartagena. The bus timetable is a rough guide as to when your bus will leave and arrive at your destination. It took us most of the day, Monday, to arrive in Cartagena. The traffic is frenetic and a complete assault on all your senses. Motor bikes are the main form of transport for most individuals, but there are still many cars, yellow taxis, huge trucks with their enormous loads and people riding push bikes as well. I would not be able to drive here as I would not get anywhere. You must be aggressive or assertive. They love using their hooters too. My goodness!!! Helmets on the motor bikes seem to be optional, like most road rules. If the motor bike driver can see a way around the traffic jam, whether it be over, along the medium strip, or the walkway/pavement, they will take it.

What gets me down though in some places around the world, is the litter and use of plastic. It is

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas.

EVERYWHERE here! The tourist areas are much cleaner and have street sweepers but in other areas, residential areas, along most of the journey to Cartagena, there was litter. I will not get on my soap box but…….

Our hotel in Cartagena was situated on the island of Manga, and it had a swimming pool. Something that we made sure we had access to. The hotel was close enough to the walled city and Getsemani where we enjoyed a stroll around and had dinner. The Castillo San Felipe de Barajas was lit up and looked quite beautiful from the bridge and entrance to the walled city.

The Boca Grande.
Tuesday – we took the Hop on and hop off bus. We enjoy these buses as it gives you a quick overview of the place you are visiting. Cartagena is a city of contrast – the historical area and the recently
developed area of Boca Grande, which looks like the Miami, Florida coastline with all the tall high-rises. We walked around the walled city with its cobbled streets, buildings with balconies and flowering creepers cascading down and along their structures, elaborate doors with their imposing and interesting door knockers. There were statues of the various Spanish leaders, plus metal works and sculptures by prominent Colombian artists like Fernando Botero and Edgardo Carmona.

One of the most popular and well-known sculpture by Fernando Botero, is La Gorda Gertrudis (Fat Gertrudis). She is an imposing sculpture of a reclining nude woman. It was donated by the artist to the
city in 2000, weighs approximately 650 kgs and stands (lies) directly in front of Santo Domingo Church. A popular tradition is to touch her breasts, which is meant to bring you good luck and abundant love. Mel had a go…. Is he trying to tell me something. ๐Ÿค”

During our bus trip, the commentary mentioned the various battles that occurred during the history of Cartagena. As always, the French and the English were involved as they tried to dominate the Caribbean. From the Spanish point of view, Sir Francis Drake was considered, like a few other historical nautical figures, to be a pirate. Like most things in life, it is all about perspective. The British tried to capture Cartagena in 1741 during the reign of King George II of Great Britain and King Philip V of Spain, but they failed miserably due to the fortification of the city and the strategic place of Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. After two months of fighting the British were forced to withdraw. They lost over 10 000 soldiers, mostly from yellow fever, malaria, and dysentery.

 A statue of San Pedro Claver.

While in Cartagena, we saw the San Pedro Claver Church which is in the aptly named Plaza de San Pedro Claver. He was a priest who worked hard to lessen the burdens and improve the lives of the African slaves brought to Cartagena to help build the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas and various other fortifications. In this plaza was the Museum of Modern art, which I enjoyed strolling around while Mel went for a walk along the wall of the city.

During our time in Cartagena, we enjoyed strolling around Getsemani. This area was once a working-class neighbourhood and an area of disrepute. It has, however, been transformed and is buzzing with artists, music blaring from the popular Plaza de la Trinidad, and many lively restaurants and salsa bars.

We visited the gold museum of Cartagena, walked the entire walled city, and spent a good part of a day walking around the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas with its many tunnels and fortifications. We saw the important landmarks like the Clock Tower and the Artesanias de Colombia shopping mail, which  looks like the globe theatre in the U.K., as well as the Monumento India Catalina.

India Catalina was an Indigenous woman born in 1495 near Cartagena. She was captured by Spanish conquistadors and taken to Santo Domingo. She later became an interpreter and intermediary for Pedro

India Catalina.

de Heredai, the founder of Cartagena.

We enjoyed our time in Cartagena but were also keen to return to Santa Marta and Passages as we prepare for the next few weeks of travel. We will be heading to Peru to visit Lima, Cusco, Machu Picchu, and Lake Titicaca and afterwards completing some of our inland travel of Colombia; to Bogota, the coffee regions in Salento and Medellin before returning to Santa Marta in time for Christmas.

The next few blog entries might be a bit behind due to our travels over the next few weeks. We would like to take this opportunity, in case we do not get a chance later, to wish everyone who reads and takes an interest in our blog, a very Merry Christmas and a wonderful, happy and healthy 2026 filled with many amazing opportunities and memories.

So, until next time…..

Take care, keep well, and stay safe.

Best wishes, always

Mel and Caryn


๐Ÿ‘‰Getsemani - street art


๐Ÿ‘‰San Felipe de Barajas.


๐Ÿ‘‰Cartagena - the walled city.