Friday, 19 September 2014

Week 38 September 1 to 7 2014


Where is the time going to – September already. Officially 1st September is the middle of the hurricane season. We know that if needed we have at least 4 to 5 days warning and a 2 day sail down to Grenada, or a 3 day sail to Trinidad so we are always watching the weather.

Monday morning Mel was at the Customs and Immigration Offices by 8.00am so we could check out of Guadeloupe while I went to the market to buy some fresh fruit and vegetables for the next few days. Of course I had to go passed a “Boulangerie” French for Bakery.

Portsmouth from Fort Shirley - Passages
is anchored in the bay.
We were sailing towards Portsmouth, Dominica by 9.30am. The weather and wind looked like we would have a good sail to Dominica which was approximately 26nm from Grand Bourg, (Marie-Galante) Guadeloupe.

We experienced a mixture of wind – in the range of 7 – 30 knots and sea swells, flat to 2 metres. We eventually arrived and had the anchor down in Portsmouth by 3.00pm, in time for Mel to check us in at Immigrations and Customs.

 Dominica is known and often referred to as the nature island of the Caribbean. Carib Native Americans were one of the first known inhabitants of Dominica and the Spanish for some reason or other did not eliminate them completely like they did on other Caribbean islands.

“The Caribs were warlike Indians who migrated north from South America in about 1000AD.They settled on Dominica, driving out the peaceful Arawaks who had arrived 1000 years earlier. About 2000 Caribs still live on the island they call Waitikubuli (tall is her body) and in 1903, Queen Victoria gave approximately 3700 acres of land to the descendants of the original inhabitants of Dominica. This is the Carib Territory in SE of Dominica.

Maroons are the slaves, who in the late 18th century, escaped from the surrounding islands and took refuge in the lush, mountainous forests. They developed many inland trails, allowing them to travel faster overland. Many of these trails still exist today. The Maroons often raided the settlements, encouraging other slaves from neighbouring islands to join them in their fight against the British troops. It wasn’t until 1814 when they were finally defeated and their leader executed. 

In 1848 after emancipation the island became a refuge for slaves who were trying to escape from the neighbouring French islands where slavery was still practised.”

Information taken from DK Eyewitness Travel Caribbean.

Through Dominica’s history it has changed hands quite a few times, from the Spanish, to the French, to the British, back to the French and then again to the British. Dominica is part of the British Commonwealth.

The start of the Indian River.
Dominica is very mountainous and lush – when Christopher Columbus (he first sighted Dominica on Sunday 3 November 1493) went back to Spain and tried to describe the terrain of Dominica to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, he crumpled up a piece of paper.  For this reason, the growing of sugar cane was not viable but it produces enough fruit and vegetables for local consumption and for export.

There are MANY trails and waterfalls across the island.

I have mentioned this before but within the sailing community there is a saying “Sailing is Maintenance in paradise” – well Week 38 certainly was that.

We have been making water on a regular basis, but we noticed our fresh water tank was on empty! Thank goodness we have over 21 gallons of fresh water in jerry cans. We also noticed that the water pump was on constantly which meant we must have a leak somewhere!

Our fridge had also gone on the blink – thank goodness the freezer hadn’t! PLUS our shower sump pump wasn’t working – this is next to the bilge pump. The bilge pump prevents any water accumulating in the hull of the boat. When it reaches a certain level, the water is pumped out of the boat and back into the sea. The shower sump pump is meant to do the same thing – when we shower, the water runs into the shower sump, when it reaches a certain level, it automatically pumps the water out into the sea. If it should overflow, it flows into the bilge.

Tuesday was spent finding the leak which Mel did rather quickly so we could make water again and fill our water tank. He also managed to fix the fridge but the shower sump pump, is another story.

We think the pipe is blocked and we need some strong chemical to unblock it. We know of one chemical that we can use which is only sold at the main marine stores – the next one is only in Grenada – otherwise “we” may have to replace the whole pipe like we had to do with our heads (toilet).

Calypso's shack
In Portsmouth, the Indian River is a major attraction particularly since part of it featured in the Pirates of the Caribbean part 2. The river bends and winds between lush vegetation with huge swamp bloodwood trees along the rivers banks. The fish, bird and insect life are abundant and plentiful and the trees and vines, at times, form a canopy overhead. In one of the narrow, side tributaries of the river is a little shack that was home to Calypso the witch in the Pirates of the Caribbean part 2.

In Portsmouth and apparently in quite a few of the other Caribbean islands that we still have to visit, there is a system where you have the services of boat boys. PAYS is the organisation that most of the “legitimate” boat boys fall under. They are a group of men who are registered “tour/taxi drivers”. When you arrive in Portsmouth some sailors have been known to be inundated with boat boys trying to get some business from you, whether it is taking you on a tour to where-ever, taking your rubbish away for you for a fee, buying fresh fruit and vegetables from them, taking you up the Indian River or some other trail that you want to go on – everything at a price of course!

In quite a few of the information books we have, it states that to go on various trails, you should or “must” have a tour guide with you. This can work out to be quite expensive and most yachties are on a budget, some tighter than others.

We were told that the only way to see the Indian River was with one of the PAYS men, so on
Along the Indian River
Wednesday we arranged with Albert to collect us (Fata Morgana, Bev, Mel and I) and take us on a 2 hour trip along the Indian River. No outboard motors are allowed on the Indian River as they are trying to keep the river as clean and as litter free as possible – this is what “they” lead us to believe.

We had an enjoyable two hour trip along the Indian River, but I was extremely disappointed by the amount of litter along the banks of the river. In fact the litter in Portsmouth is disturbing as well. Dominica advertises that it is the Nature Island of the Caribbean and that their emphasis is on ecotourism – I am all for this and it is the way to go BUT they need to do something about the HUGE litter problem in the towns and along the rivers and roads.

In Guadeloupe we noticed that on many of the street corners, were big rubbish dumpsters. Some were for recyclable goods like plastic bottles. Guadeloupe was clean!!! Yes I know recycling is expensive and Guadeloupe is a “part” of France, but if everyone picked up their litter and put it in the readily available dumpsters, it would make such a difference. We have been on quite a few walks since arriving in Portsmouth, Dominica and along all of them, there is litter – plastic bottles and bags!


Anyway back to the Indian River….. Back to Wednesday…. After the Indian River we relaxed and continued doing the many chores that need to be done on a yacht.
Fort Shirley

Thursday afternoon, we (Mel and I) and Mira, Ivo and Maya went to Fort Shirley which is part of the Cabrits National Park and went on one of the walks and trails within the grounds of the Fort.

Fort Shirley was once the site of one of the most impressive 18th century military installations in the West Indies and it is slowly being restored to its former self.

The swamp grove snake
While we were on one of these trails, we came across a Swamp Grove snake. I screamed blue murder and wished I could fly, while Mel went to get a closer look so he could take a photo. They are harmless and pretty small but as far as I am concerned, a snake is a snake is a snake!

Friday we decided to catch a bus and to go to the Bwa Nef Waterfalls and one of the only cold fumaroles in the Caribbean – Cold Soufriere (cold sulphur vapours escaping as opposed to hot sulphur vapours escaping).

The Bwa Nef Waterfalls
The bus driver was extremely helpful and dropped us off at the start of the 20 – 30min trail to the Bwa Nef waterfalls. We climbed over rocks and boulders, over pools and streams of water until we came to the Bwa Nef waterfalls. It was in an amphitheatre of solid rock. Some of the locals refer to it as the Bat Cave as at times there are lots of bats flying around. It was quite lovely. We didn’t go for a swim in the pool as it was very shallow.

On our way back to the main road, Ivo and Mel saw two bunches of bananas growing in the wild. If any fruit is growing in the wild and is not on someone’s plantation or small holding, you are free to take it. That is why nobody in Dominica should starve or be unhealthy as there is so much fruit growing in the wild, along the road side.

Ivo with his bunches
 of free bananas
Ivo, who is always so enthusiastic when he sees “free” food, started cutting down the bananas. Mel was there to assist him. We each have a full bunch of bananas hanging up on our boom, waiting to be eaten as they mature.  I have and will be making banana bread over the next few days.

Half an hour later we were back up at the main road and walking towards Penville, the nearest village where we knew we would be able to catch a bus to the Cold Soufriere.

The Cold Soufriere was interesting and of course rather smelly.


At the Cold Soufriere
After spending some time at the Cold Soufriere we caught another bus back to Portsmouth.

Friday afternoon we spent time doing the more chores on the boat, while Mira, Ivo and Maya went down the Indian River on their kayak armed with some big refuse bags ready to do some cleaning up of the river.

Mira, from Fata Morgana, is a photographer, she takes AMAZING photos and is always snapping away. She was keen to go back to the Indian River to take more photos but as many of the boat boys said, one is not allowed to go down the Indian River without a guide. Mira spoke to one of the park officials, asking if she, Ivo and Maya went to the Indian River in their kayak with some big black garbage bags to do some clearing up of the litter, would they be allowed to go. One of the officials said that would be acceptable.

They came back rather disappointed and disillusioned as while they were rowing down the river and
At the Cold Soufriere
picking up the litter along the river, they came across a HUGE dump site where the river meets the road. When they arrived back at the mouth of the Indian River, another Official who hadn’t given them permission to go down the river, wanted to charge them for the two garbage bags of litter they had collected.

It is extremely disappointing and the Indian River excursion is a bit of a farce, as we were lead to believe that “everyone” is concerned about and making an effort to keep the Indian River in pristine condition BUT in reality there is litter EVERYWHERE!!!

Saturday morning like in many other places around the world, is market day. Mel and I went into town to have a look at all of the local produce on sale at the market. The fruits and vegetables are so cheap and fresh, free of any preservatives and chemicals.

Sunday was spent catching up on emails and contact with home so we walked to Fort Shirley as we knew the cafĂ© there had good, fast, free and reliable Wi – Fi.

Week 38 is done and dusted! Our plans are to stay in Portsmouth for a few more days as we intend hiring a car so we can see a bit more of Dominica and its many beautiful waterfalls. We will then head south to the capital, Roseau where we will stay for only 1 – 2 nights before heading on to Martinique which is the start of the Windward Islands.

Until next time – keep well.

Take care.

Captain Mel and Admiral Caryn/xx